Fortune's Kippers

Fortune's has been smoking kippers in the same tiny smokehouse at the far end of Henrietta Street, under the East Cliff, since 1872, and the fifth generation of the family still does it the old way: herrings split, brined and hung over smouldering oak and beech chips for a day or more. The blackened smokehouse and the smell drifting down the street are a Whitby institution.

Buy a pair wrapped in newspaper to take home, and eat them grilled with butter and brown bread. The street itself, a dead end beneath the cliff, is one of the most atmospheric corners of the old town.