Frequently asked questions
Where is the Esk Valley?
In the north-east corner of the North York Moors National Park in North Yorkshire. The River Esk runs about 28 miles from the moors above Westerdale to the sea at Whitby, and the valley's villages lie between the two. It is roughly an hour's drive from York, Middlesbrough or Scarborough, and Whitby is the nearest town.
Can I visit without a car?
Yes, more easily than almost anywhere else in the park. The Esk Valley Railway runs from Middlesbrough to Whitby with stations at Castleton Moor, Danby, Lealholm, Glaisdale, Egton, Grosmont, Sleights and Ruswarp. See Getting here and our guide to each station.
How often do the trains run?
Typically four or five trains a day in each direction, seven days a week. Check the Northern timetable before you travel and note that several stations are request stops.
Where can I park?
Use the pay-and-display car parks at The Moors National Park Centre in Danby, Grosmont, Goathland and Whitby. Free parking in the smaller villages is very limited; please never block gates, passing places or the narrow village streets. Whitby has a park and ride on the A171 in summer.
Are dogs welcome?
Generally yes. Dogs travel free on the trains, most pubs allow them, and the walks are ideal. Keep them on a lead near livestock and on the open moor from March to July, when ground-nesting birds are easily disturbed, and bag their waste. Whitby's main beach has a summer dog ban on part of the sands; Sandsend and the section towards Sandsend stay open.
When is the heather in bloom?
From late July to early September, with the second half of August usually the best. See wildlife and dark skies.
When is the busiest time?
Whitby is busy in all school holidays and at Goth Weekend, Regatta and Folk Week. The villages are rarely crowded except Goathland and Grosmont on sunny weekends in summer. Book accommodation months ahead for August.
Is there phone signal?
Patchy. Whitby and the higher ground are usually fine, but the valley bottom and the woods have little or none, and there is nothing on much of the moor. Download maps and timetables before you set out; most pubs and cafés have Wi-Fi.
Where are the public toilets?
At The Moors Centre in Danby, Grosmont and Goathland stations, Castleton, Lealholm and several in Whitby. Cafés and pubs elsewhere will usually oblige customers.
Do I need to check tide times?
Only on the coast. Saltwick Bay and the beach walk to Sandsend are cut off at high water; check Whitby tide times before you set out. The river is not tidal above Ruswarp weir.
What is the weather like?
Changeable, and the moors are colder, wetter and windier than the coast a few miles away. Use the Met Office mountain forecast for the North York Moors as well as the Whitby forecast, and carry a waterproof whatever the sky says in the morning.
Can I swim in the river?
People paddle at the stepping stones at Lealholm and Egton Bridge and swim in the pool below Thomason Foss, but the Esk rises very fast after rain, the water is cold all year and there are no lifeguards. Never enter the river when it is high or discoloured.
Can I fish the Esk?
The Esk is Yorkshire's only salmon river and is fished under permits from the Esk Fishery Association and local angling clubs; day tickets are available on some stretches. A rod licence from the Environment Agency is also required. See Fishing on the Esk.
Is there electric car charging?
Chargers are available in Whitby and at some accommodation, but there are very few in the villages. Charge before you head up the dale.
Where can I find out more about the rest of the national park?
Our sister site, North Yorkshire Moors, covers the whole park and coast, including its own FAQ.